Wednesday, August 20, 2014

50%

My sisters and I are half and halfers.  100% Lebanese dad, 100% Irish mom. 


All four of our grandparents came here early in the 20th century through Ellis Island.
Fun family fact:  my grandfather Joseph Michael Corey Sr's name was actually Joseph Mirhaij ibn Khoury.  His father was a priest and Khoury is the arabic word for priest, and in Lebanon the custom is to add "son of ..." i.e. "ibn ..." to your surname.  So at Ellis Island some guy heard Joseph Mirhaij ibn Khoury" and he wrote down Joseph Michael Corey.  Isn't that wild?  So, really, we're the Mirhaij clan.  

Fun fact #1
Khouri:  Family name.  Meaning:  Priest Khouri (also transliterated as Khoury, Arabic: خوري‎, Ḫūrī) is an Arabic surname that is unique to Arab Christians. The term Khouri means "priest" in Arabic. It derives from the Latin word curia. Although most popular amongst the population in Lebanon, the name can also be found within Christian communities in Syria, Palestine, Tunisia, Iraq and Jordan. It is often given as a last name to a new priest or minister, replacing the old one. It is common for a family to keep the Khouri surname for generations past the life of the priest. Catholic and Orthodox clergy (particularly Greek Orthodox, Melkite Catholic and Maronite Catholic) are the largest numbers of people with this name; all three Rites having a married priesthood according to Catholic and Orthodox norms. 



Fun fact #2:  My family on my mom's side is HUGE, so the Irish influence was strong, perhaps even dominant.  My mom is one of 13 siblings and I'm one of the 66 cousins those 13 spawned.

My mother's IMMEDIATE family +1
Bill, Peggy, Fran, Elda (first in-law), Jim, 
Tom,  Paul, 
Monnie, Grampy, Grammy, Ellen (mom), 
Brian, Kevin, Ginny, Kitty & Mary


But in at least two areas the middle east influence ruled:  skin tone and cuisine.  The olive skin tone definitely prevailed, even for the fairest of my fair sisters. 


And much as we love all things Irish, the food therein wasn't much to write home about.  Lebanese food though?  To. Die. For.  It is, quite simply, my favorite food.  All lemon juice and olive oil and grains and greens and tomatoes.  Yum.  And after Jacquie's revelation in her blog that we could, in fact, make most of it ourselves and don't have to wait for the all-too infrequent visits when we all gather in Connecticut, I started making our favorite Lebanese dishes, too.  And my family has jumped right into the love fest.

Fun fact #3:  Corey turned 18 last week.   Today we bring her to Wash U to begin college life.  So last week I asked Corey what she wanted for her last supper/birthday dinner and guess what she chose?

Atta girl. 

On the menu:
Kibbe
Loubi
Tabouli
Sittoo Rice
Kibbe
 It all starts with Burghul.  You can find it everywhere and it's the secret weapon of Lebanese food.

You need one cup of the bulgar. Rinse it and then cover with cold water and soak for 20 minutes before draining well.


 Grate a 1/4 cup of onions


In a bowl, put the drained burghul, 2 pounds of ground beef, grated onion, 1 tsp cumin and a dash of cayenne and salt and pepper. Mix well with  your hands to distribute the seasoning. With a wooden spoon, beat in about 1/2 cup ice water. The mixture should be smooth and soft.

Meanwhile, chop up a cup of onions, heat some olive oil and sautee until translucent. 
Then add salt & pepper and about 1/2 cup of the meat mixture.  Raise the heat and fry up until the meat is crumbly and the onion is caramelized, about 10 minutes.


Add about 1/2 cup of pine nuts that you've toasted. Let mixture cool a bit. 


 Then divide the meat mixture into two and press half into an oiled 9x13


 Add the meat/pine nut/onion mixture (save a couple tablespoons for the loubi)

Then layer the rest of the meat over the top.


 Score the top of the meat lightly into a diamond pattern. Just cause it looks cool and my mom did and that's the way it should be.

Cook at 350 for about 40 minutes, until the top is golden.  Serve with plain yogurt on top.



 Loube
 Sautee a chopped onion in olive oil and garlic
Add about a pound of green beans and sautee until slightly cooked
Add a lg can of crushed/diced tomatoes and a little of the sauteed meat mixture you've reserved.
 Cover and cook on low for about 40 minutes.  Serve over rice


Tabouli
Start with the burghul wheat again, but this time rinse 1 cup of burghul then cover with boiling water and let sit for an hour.  Drain well then add
2 bunches chopped parsley
1 cup chopped fresh mint
3-4 chopped tomatoes
1 bunch chopped scallions
juice from one or two squeezed lemons
about 1/4 to 1/2 cup of olive oil
season with salt & pepper and refrigerate to let the flavors mix.



Sittoo Rice 
(Sittoo is the arabic word for grandmother and this is how our Sittoo made rice)
Basically this is Lebanese rice pilaf.  Break a handful of fine spaghetti into small pieces and sautee in some butter.  Add 1 cup white rice and two cups water.  Boil, reduce heat and cook on low for 17 minutes.  Add some syrian pepper if you can get your hands on it, if not add some white pepper and a dash of cinnamon.


Lastly,
EVERYTHING IN THIS MEAL TASTES BETTER WITH PLAIN YOGURT ON TOP


And then?
Sit down and enjoy the feast.








Baked Lebanese Kibbe
Time: About 1 hour 20 minutes

1 cup fine-grain bulgur
2 pounds  ground beef
1/4 cup grated onion
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted and ground, or 1 teaspoon ground cumin
Pinch cayenne pepper
Salt and pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for oiling the pan
1 cup  chopped onions,
1/2 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted
Greek-style yogurt, for serving.

1. Rinse the bulgur well, then cover with cold water and soak for 20 minutes. Drain well.

2. Put the drained bulgur, lamb, grated onion, cumin and cayenne in a large mixing bowl. Season with 2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Mix well with your hands to distribute the seasoning. With a wooden spoon, beat in about 1/2 cup ice water. The mixture should be smooth and soft.

3. Heat the olive oil in a cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and fry gently, stirring occasionally, until they soften, about 5 minutes. Season generously with salt and pepper. Raise the heat and add 1/4 cup of the lamb mixture. Continue frying, allowing the meat to get crumbly and the onions to brown nicely, another 10 minutes or so. Stir in the pine nuts and taste. Let cool to room temperature.

4. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly oil a shallow 9-by-13-inch baking dish, then press half the remaining lamb mixture evenly over the bottom of the pan. Spread half the onion-pine nut mixture over the meat. Add the rest of the meat to the pan, patting and pressing it with wet hands to make a smooth top. If desired, score the top with a sharp paring knife to make a traditional diamond pattern at least 1/2-inch deep.

5. Bake uncovered for 35 to 45 minutes, until the top is golden. Spread with the remaining onion-pine nut mixture. Serve warm, at room temperature or cool, with a dollop of yogurt.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Wednesday, August 13, 2014

Bayba

Couldn't you just die?
I once heard a radio interview with a woman dispensing child rearing advice.  She was asked a question about how to raise 'joyful servants' - well trained kids who pitch in and help, who know that's just what you do.  Her response has always stuck with me:  start early and accept imperfection.

Classic Bayba
I'm guessing I heard this sometime around the turn-of-the-millenium, and I remember thinking  'oh crap, I blew that'  with regards to Corey and Noah, who were already in full-time school.  But with Dylan, at least in the kitchen, I started early. 

Dylan was two when Noah went to kindergarten, so we had several years of the two of us at home full time before he started full day school.  His nickname back then was Bayba, shortened from Baby D, shortened from Baby Dylan.   I learned early on that he would be VERY happy for a long stretch if I backed a step stool up to the sink and filled it with warm water and tons of dish soap so Bayba could play with the "bubbies."  Gradually that moved into giving him a piece of tupperware to 'clean' (very clean.)  And, eventually, we started cooking together.  I started assigning him simple cooking chores, like chopping onions.  KIDDING.  In truth, we baked a lot. I'd have him measure out a teaspoon of salt, or scoop out flour with the measuring cup, or mix cookie dough with a wooden spoon.    Dylan is a very methodical person and he enjoys the precision of baking.   He learned, over time, that if you go wild with the spoon the flour goes flying.  He learned to mix the ingredients by inverting instead of swirling.  He learned how to use a hand mixer.  He learned the smell of vanilla and how to crack an egg.  And gradually I moved from coaching to observing. 

And now?  At age 13?  He is the chief baker in the house.







I was struck by this last week when I stopped home after a doctor's office and before heading to work.  At the table were Dylan and two of his friends, with a batch of freshly made strawberry pancakes in front of them.  Dylan complained that there was only enough bisquick to make a half batch and he didn't feel like making them from scratch.  I asked why he didn't make french toast and he complained that he was doing all the cooking while Leo and Charlie got to play XBox.  They both nodded in agreement.  So I suggested he make the french toast but that the other boys had to clean up.  They both nodded in agreement.  Dylan got to work, pulling out bread, eggs, milk, vanilla & cinnamon.  When I came back downstairs this is what I saw:





 Start early.
Accept imperfection.
Savor the rewards!


Tuesday, August 5, 2014

Ngunja



 Here's my husband, Doug, last week, on his 51st birthday.


 But when I met him?   He was 27, and he looked like this:








And before that, Doug spent two years in Central African Republic as a Peace Corps volunteer, teaching English then biology to high school students.
 

His pictures from this experience are stunning.  A few samples:
I adore this picture. Doug and his colleagues.  Can you find Doug?


Safari!
Shirley & Eric came to visit
I met Doug post-peace corps and heard lots of stories about the people in his community (warm and generous),  the landscape (lush),  and the isolation (he was a two-day truck ride from the capitol and the only volunteer in his town).  This was decades before the internet and cell phones and mail took a month - so for two years it was Doug, his work, his African community, his books and lots of amazing experiences with his fantastic fellow volunteers.



He also talked about the food (you knew I'd get there, right?), particularly one dish called ngunja.  Ngunja is a spicy dish made from cassava leaves that was usually
served with gozo,  a starch made from the cassava root.
As I understand it, making gozo is incredibly laborious;  the root needs to be harvested, soaked, peeled, chopped, dried then boiled and ground into a paste.  Here is a description I found for the end product, I kid you not:  The consistency is like that of oatmeal that has been left out on the counter for 3 days, or first grade paste.  Doug said he hated gozo when he got there - but grew to love the stuff.   And he missed ngunja.

So we gave it a shot.  Obviously, trying to replicate gozo was out, but we decided to try to recreate ngunja using local ingredients.  And it was goooood. So it's a regular now, and my kids LOVE it.  Try it!

NGUNJA
Start with lots of fresh spinach.  I used three bunches
Chop up a large white onion or two

Heat some vegetable or peanut oil in a large frying pan or wok, add loads of garlic


Add the onion and some cayenne and/or crushed red pepper.  If you're like us, add LOTS of it.




 Then add some ground or cubed beef.  I used about a pound of ground sirloin.  Brown it, drain the fat, then add the spinach leaves, a little water and cover until spinach is wilted.


Then, the key step:  add a couple heaping tablespoons of natural, creamy peanut butter.  Cover again to let the peanut butter heat up, then mix well. 

 Serve over rice or on a pizza crust or with tortillas. 

 The flavors are amazing together.

Corey, on her first bite the other night said, "Why is this so good?"

Because it's ngunja.